Gecko Lighting Guide

UVB is a nutrient, not a luxury

UVB light lets geckos synthesize vitamin D3, which unlocks calcium absorption. Without it, even a perfectly dusted diet can end in metabolic bone disease — the most common preventable illness in captive geckos.

Diurnal species like giant day geckos need stronger UVB. Crepuscular species like leopard, crested and gargoyle geckos benefit from low-level UVB. Even nocturnal geckos show measurable health improvements with gentle exposure.

Choosing the right strength

Use the Ferguson Zone system: shade-dwellers (Zone 1–2) like gargoyle and crested geckos need 2.4–7% tubes, partial-sun species (Zone 3) need 6–10%, and desert baskers like leopard geckos need 7–10%. Distance and mesh change everything — always check the manufacturer's UVI chart for your mounting height.

Choose T5 HO linear tubes over compact coils: they spread UV evenly across the enclosure instead of creating one intense hotspot.

Cycles and replacement

Run lights on a 12-hour timer to anchor the day/night cycle, and never leave white light on overnight — use a ceramic emitter if night heat is needed. Replace UVB tubes every 12 months; they emit visible light long after the UV is gone.